Pistol Shooting Drill – How To Get Rid Of Your Flinch

U.S.A. –-(Ammoland.com)- Do you want to get rid of your flinch? You know, that one that makes you shoot low and left (if you are right-handed) consistently? Who wouldn’t?

I reached out to two of my good friends who are excellent pistol shooters and top-rated trainers, Steve “Yeti” Fisher of Sentinal Concepts and Chuck Pressburg of Presscheck Consulting. They both told me that I sucked and then gave me some great advice, shoot ball and dummy. A lot.

Disclaimer: There are a TON of types of flinches, not just one. This drill focuses on you noticing the flinch, not diagnosing what kind of flinch you are displaying.
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8 Responses to Pistol Shooting Drill – How To Get Rid Of Your Flinch

  1. Bill Walmner says:

    I find that shooting a .357 magnum revolver (S&W 686-7) and putting .38s .357s and dummies works best.

    • Elmo says:

      Yeah, I was going to say something about shooting a revolver and loosing count of how many you’ve fired. Or maybe loading 5 in the ol’ six-shooter.

      • Wirecutter says:

        Yup, a flinch becomes real obvious to the shooter and a friendly bystander when you pull the trigger and nothing happens but you lose your sight picture anyway.

    • RHT447 says:

      +1. Been doing the same for decades with a S&W 67 loaded with a mix of live rounds and empties. No dummy rounds needed. I use a white paper plate for a target so there is no specific aiming point to distract the shooter. This allows them to concentrate on sight alignment. Also emphasize follow-through. The gun is going to recoil. Let it. Just let the shot go.

  2. Tsquared says:

    I have a Glock 37 45GAP that was tuned-up by a Glock armorer back when I first got it. It had about 40k rounds through it and I chipped the firing pin. I took it to Glock and explained It had a G34 minus connector in it and a chipped firing pin. The armorer brought my gun out to me about an hour latter and said he replaced everything but the frame, barrel, and slide.

    Two days latter I had it at the range. Glock had taken a clean running gun with a 4lb trigger that was smooth with no creep and turned it into a rough running gun with a 8.5lb gravely trigger pull that put every piece of brass strait to my forehead. Getting hit by hot brass around your eyes was the start of the flinch.

    The gun went back 2 more times to Glock. I got back a clunker every time. I have gotten the gun almost straitened out but the trigger has a creepy feel to it and it doesn’t seem to break at the same point every time, I have one more brand of connector to try. I am also working through the flinch reaction. I don’t have it shooting my 1911, just this Glock. Thanks for posting this.

    PSA: If you have a good running Glock and have a problem with it, do not take it to Glock. Buy the part and fix it yourself, they are easy to work on.

  3. JeremyR says:

    When I started my boys shooting, it was wit ha S&W29. We took a box of good heavy stuff out. I fired the first six, leaving them 22 each. the last set was four, and I put two empties in. Neither boy flinched a bit. They were eleven and twelve. Proud of them.

  4. Sarthurk says:

    What really matters, is what happens down range. So……?

  5. Eastwood says:

    When I bought my first pistol a 44 Magnum Ruger Super Redhawk my well experienced uncle tod me to load the cylinder with two rounds then an empty chamber the one more then an empty chamber. Then spin it off and close it without looking. When you do this enough that you can fir on an empty chamber without pulling the gun in anticipation you will have mastered that big boy. It took me about four boxes of ammo. After that I could fire one handed about as fast as I could pull the trigger and still stack my shots staying on center with each shot just a little higher than the previous.

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