1911Tuner FAQ

This sticky is a composite of threads brought over from our American Classic 1911 Forum. They were done by 1911Tuner who has forgot more about 1911’s than all of us here put together. He also loves animals and rescues dogs so in my book he is a great man. With that said let’s get this going.


The links do not work at the site, but if you highlight the text of the subject, right click and then hit “Search Google” it will give you links that do work.

This entry was posted in Gun Tech, Guns, WiscoDave. Bookmark the permalink.

6 Responses to 1911Tuner FAQ

  1. =TW= says:

    I just read both pages at the site, bookmarked for future reference. Lots of good stuff there. History and trivia topics are worthwhile and shed some light on the design of the 1911. Details of design evolution of the various models and safety/Series designations are well taken. The opinions are based on experience and supported with theoretical references which seem legit. I haven’t digested it fully but it should be of value when used in conjunction with Kuhnhausen manuals.

    I concur with many of the author’s opinions, notably those pertaining to spring rates, forward slide serrations, beavertail design and the use of MIM parts.
    (I will have to give some thought to his description of the half-cock notch…)
    Timing is the key to a reliable 1911- attempts to make it tighter or run faster may affect timing and consequently reduce reliability. It seems many of the problems commonly attributed to the 1911 are due to deviations from the weapon’s original design.
    Many of the features currently offered by manufacturers are unnecessary fashion items which may contribute little of substance to the weapon.
    Assuming quality parts, manufactured to spec, are used, and competent assembly the 1911 should need very little in the way of tuning.

  2. oltanker says:

    I first held a 1911A1 in 1968 as an armor crewman trainee. I still own one. It is trouble-free because I recognize that John Browning designed a combat weapon. It has loose tolerances so that it will work when dirty and poorly maintained, with ammunition that’s spent the last three eyars of its life resting in a loaded magazine.

    The gun’s GOOD.

    People run into problems when they try to turn Browning’s combat tool into a pampered poodle of a game-playing toy.

  3. FrankP says:

    1911Tuner knows his stuff. Using his instructions for 1911 site I replaced the barrel, link, ejector, extractor, tuned them all, and turned a 1978 Colt from a Jam-O-Matic into a reliable shooter. Learned a lot about the mechanics and timing required to make a 1911 run properly.

    He’s a great resource!

  4. leonard says:

    Isn’t this typical?

    I always thought the Army demanded the grip safety and the 1911 was designed to be carried cocked and locked rather than at half cock.

  5. leonard says:

    There are some changes that aren’t cosmetic on a 1911, more visible sights, beaver tail grip safety, extended safety are all good ideas, deactivating the grip safety is another, although some people would disagree.

    • =TW= says:

      You are correct.
      Properly installed grips, triggers, MS housings, safeties, beavertails and sights can be added to suit the user without compromising reliability.
      Grips are easy to swap, and mainspring hsgs are not too hard. Sights are a little trickier, especially if they must be swaged. Trigger jobs, and fitting safeties and beavertails demands considerable attention to detail.
      If you decide to DIY, start with high quality parts. Follow the book carefully and be sure to observe all safety checks. (You might want to see how it runs first.)
      You will be rewarded with increased knowledge of the weapon and the satisfaction of a job well done.

If your comment 'disappears', don't trip - it went to my trash folder and I will restore it when I moderate.